Too late to plant?

[Rolex]

We maintain a piece of the property and divide it into 12 garden plots for tenants who like to grow their own.
5 of those plots have now been abandoned and we would like to let others take them over for the remainder of the season.
What could be planted at this time of the year that could still be able to produce a yield?

Location is East Tennessee.

 

[Slowngreen]

If you go to a garden shop, home depot for example and buy a potted plant, like tomatoes for example or onions, peppers and so on, you should have plenty of time for them to do well. My dad just planted two tomato plants last week and one already has a golf ball sized tomato growing. I doubt going from a seed would be a good idea this late (depending on the plant, cilantro, spinach, are fast growing.)

 

[Melissa]

You are in a pretty warm state, so your growing season may be long enough to allow for a late planting. I agree with Slowgreen, you or your tenants should be able to get plants that are far enough along to allow for a good yield. If no one ends up taking over the plot, you may want to look into what kind of plant could be seeded and then be tilled into the soil in the spring. Basically having the plot go fallow I believe it is called. Winter wheat is one seed that can be used, but I am use to this being a fall seeding.

Good luck, and it is such a great idea you provide the plots for you tenants. I wish more could do that.

 

[Rolex]

I'm not the property owner but the President of the Residents' Association. We all pitch in to try to make this an enjoyable place. Lots of corn and salad coming up.

 

[sur3fir3]

Hey rolex, try some radishes, carrots, potatoes, you could also do some herbs like basil, cilantro, oregano. Now for the radishes and carrots plant a row every two weeks, for continual harvests. I will sometimes put out some garlic or onions. I will ask my friend that has over 200 acres of farmland next time I see him. He is the person who has been helping me for the past 3 years.

 

[Rolex]

Thanks for that great info. I'll pass it on to the residents.

 

[w_r_ranch]

Depends on the zone you're located in... If it hot there, many of the previously mentioned may not make for you. Hot weather crops like back-eye peas, purple hulls, okra or eggplant might... it all depends on your zone (may be getting kind of late in the season).
http://www.garden.org/zipzone/
Find your zone by entering your zip code

Where I'm located (zone 8b), I'm already planning my fall garden (the spring garden is gone... only thing left are the summer crops like what I mentioned, honeydew, cantaloupe & watermelon). Just my 2 cents.

 

[Rolex]

I'm in 6b, wr. Thanks for your info. I'll pass it on.
I'm a lifelong New Yorker, but now I'm retired in Tennessee. I could grow anything where I was. The black soil was a foot deep. Here's there's nothing but red clay.
The garden area here is tilled in with hay, manure and what ever good soil gets picked up from the local leaf compost. It seems to do okay but the tenants who have neglected their plots have really given a good hold for the weeds.

 

[sur3fir3]

Depends on the zone you're located in... If it hot there, many of the previously mentioned may not make for you. Hot weather crops like back-eye peas, purple hulls, okra or eggplant might... it all depends on your zone (may be getting kind of late in the season).
Find your zone by entering your zip code

Where I'm located (zone 8b), I'm already planning my fall garden (the spring garden is gone... only thing left are the summer crops like what I mentioned, honeydew, cantaloupe & watermelon). Just my 2 cents.

I'm in central fl and I am currently growing everything I listed above with little to no issues.

 

[w_r_ranch]

Maybe so sur3fir3, however you are not trying to start them right now in the hope that they make something to harvest before the first frost either (hence my comment regarding the zone)... Average date of the first frost for zone 6 is October 15, BTW.

Here the guide for your area, Rolex: Vegetable Planting Guide for Tennessee

Another good source is your County Extension Agent.

 

[Rolex]

Thanks very much for that info, W.R. I've printed it out so I can post it for them.

 

[sur3fir3]

Maybe so sur3fir3, however you are not trying to start them right now in the hope that they make something to harvest before the first frost either (hence my comment regarding the zone)... Average date of the first frost for zone 6 is October 15, BTW.

Here the guide for your area, Rolex: Vegetable Planting Guide for Tennessee

Another good source is your County Extension Agent.

I am not arguing with you, more trying to understand. The radishes only take about 30 or so days to produce, while small and baby carrots take about 2 months, the potatoes and garlic are the only 2 that will come close to the freeze date if planted now. Please tell me why you wouldn't plant these now in zone 6. I can understand the garlic and potatoes, but even they should be real close to full maturity before the frost. I am new to this, so I am trying to learn everything I can.

 

[w_r_ranch]

I didn't take it your response in an 'argumentative way', so I apologize profusely if that was how it was perceived...

Without knowing the zone, I was operating in the blind... which is why I tried to quantify my answer with "it all depends on your zone". For every species of seed, there is an optimal soil temperature for germination. As you might expect, the percentage of any seeds to germinate is maximum at the optimal temperature for that species. As the temperature declines or advances from the optimal temperature, two things happen at the same time. While the percentage of seeds to germinate decreases, the number of days to germination increases. That is the fundamental relationship between germination and temperature. These fact thus affect harvest dates.

All seeds have a minimum and maximum temperature at which they will germinate. The optimum temperature for a particular species is the temperature that enables all seeds to germinate in the shortest time. Many seeds only germinate if they experience daily temperature shifts. This would normally occur on or near the soil surface, as the soil warms up during the day and cools at night. This is a common trait amongst small-seeded species that also require light for germination.

As far as potatoes and garlic being planted at this time of year.... it is a simple matter of understanding that they are both are cool season crops that require at least 120 days to harvest AND cool temperatures to make a decent harvest.

If Rolex planted them tomorrow, he would in all probability have wasted both his time & his money... and that is discouraging IMO.

 

[Hangman]

good info ranch and good points

 

[sur3fir3]

I didn't take it your response in an 'argumentative way', so I apologize profusely if that was how it was perceived...

Without knowing the zone, I was operating in the blind... which is why I tried to quantify my answer with "it all depends on your zone". For every species of seed, there is an optimal soil temperature for germination. As you might expect, the percentage of any seeds to germinate is maximum at the optimal temperature for that species. As the temperature declines or advances from the optimal temperature, two things happen at the same time. While the percentage of seeds to germinate decreases, the number of days to germination increases. That is the fundamental relationship between germination and temperature. These fact thus affect harvest dates.

All seeds have a minimum and maximum temperature at which they will germinate. The optimum temperature for a particular species is the temperature that enables all seeds to germinate in the shortest time. Many seeds only germinate if they experience daily temperature shifts. This would normally occur on or near the soil surface, as the soil warms up during the day and cools at night. This is a common trait amongst small-seeded species that also require light for germination.

As far as potatoes and garlic being planted at this time of year.... it is a simple matter of understanding that they are both are cool season crops that require at least 120 days to harvest AND cool temperatures to make a decent harvest.

If Rolex planted them tomorrow, he would in all probability have wasted both his time & his money... and that is discouraging IMO.

I apologize too, I just thought what I had written may have come off as argumentative. I am just trying to learn what I can from who I can. Thank you for your expertise, and explanation. Its great to have people around who are willing to explain i have some questions, but I am going to make a new thread instead of hijacking this one .

 

[sreece]

If you like spinach, I would recommend trying Winter Giant Spinach. In zone 7b I grew this all winter without having to cover it so I'm pretty sure it would do well even after it starts getting cold where you are. And it produces very large, very tender and delicious leaves.

 

[Rolex]

Thanks, sreece. I just might try that. Not much I can think of that contains more iron than Spinach and it makes for a great salad.

 

[mountain man]

Any greens will give you a good crop. Didn't see where you're located. Plant, there's lot's of time.

 

[Rolex]

I just finished reading the thread on "The Fall garden" so I'll let the tenants know that there will be some garden plots available.